Best Under Sink Water Filters (2026) — A Licensed Installer's Guide

Last updated: March 2026  |  Written by: Boris Jabotinsky, Licensed Master Plumber & Water Treatment Specialist  |  CA License: CSLB #1102129  |  Sources: NSF, WQA, IAPMO, EPA

I've installed over 12,000 water treatment systems across California and Texas — and I've lost count of how many under sink water filters I've pulled out of homes that weren't doing what the homeowner thought they were doing. Undersink reverse osmosis units. Carbon filters. Whole-home systems. Custom configurations for well water, city water, hard water, and everything in between. I've worked with every major manufacturer — Pentair, Puronics, Hague, Clack, Fleck, ENPRESS — and I've seen what these systems look like at month one, year two, and year five.

So when I read the "best under sink water filter" guides that dominate Google right now, I notice something immediately: almost none of them are written by someone who's actually installed these systems. They're written by affiliate bloggers who ordered a filter on Amazon, ran it for a week, and assigned it a score. Some of them are genuinely good — Water Filter Guru does real lab testing, and Consumer Reports has solid methodology. But even the best product testers can't tell you what happens when a homeowner's water pressure drops below 40 PSI, or when an RO membrane fails because nobody checked the pH first, or which systems generate the most callbacks six months after installation.

That's what this guide adds. I'm a licensed master plumber and water treatment contractor in California (CSLB #1102129). I'm going to walk you through the under-sink water filter landscape the way I'd explain it to a homeowner sitting across from me during a consultation: honestly, specifically, and without trying to sell you something you don't need.

Why This Guide Is Different From Every Other "Best Of" List

Here's the problem with most under-sink water filter reviews: they evaluate these products like consumer electronics. Unbox it, install it, test the water, assign it a score out of 10. That's useful — I'm not going to pretend it isn't. But it misses the parts that actually matter to a homeowner living with this system for years, not weeks.

For example: a filter might score a perfect 10 on contaminant reduction in a controlled lab test, but if it requires 50 PSI of inlet pressure and your house runs at 35, you're going to have problems nobody warned you about. Or a system might be "easy to install in 15 minutes" — which is true if your cold water shutoff valve is in perfect condition, your supply line is the right size, and you have enough clearance under the sink. In my experience, about half of real installations involve at least one complication that a 15-minute YouTube video doesn't cover.

What I bring to this is simple: I know what works because I've installed it, serviced it, and heard back from the homeowner a year later. I know which systems generate callbacks and which ones we never hear about again (in the good way). I know which filters are easy for homeowners to replace themselves and which ones result in a call to us every six months. And I know the difference between what a lab test says and what your tap actually delivers.

As you can imagine, this same framework is what we use when deciding which products to carry at GoodFor. Every system on our line went through this evaluation — because in this business, fewer callbacks means higher customer satisfaction, and higher customer satisfaction is how you build a company that lasts. I'll be transparent throughout this guide about which systems GoodFor sells and which we don't, and I'll explain the reasoning either way.

The Two Technologies You Need to Understand Before You Buy

Before I recommend a single product, you need to understand the most important distinction in under-sink filtration: carbon filtration versus reverse osmosis. These are fundamentally different technologies, and choosing the wrong one for your water is the most expensive mistake I see homeowners make.

Carbon Filtration (NSF/ANSI 42 and 53)

Carbon filters work by adsorption — contaminants are attracted to and held on the surface of activated carbon media as water passes through. Think of it like a magnet for certain chemicals. Carbon is excellent at removing chlorine, taste and odor compounds, many VOCs, and some heavy metals. With the right media and enough contact time, carbon filters can also be certified for lead, PFAS, and cyst reduction under NSF/ANSI 53.

The limitation: carbon has a fixed capacity. Once the media surface is saturated, contaminants pass right through — and here's the part that gets people: you won't taste or see the difference. The water looks the same. It tastes the same. But the filter is done. I've pulled carbon cartridges out of homes that were a year past due, and the homeowners had no idea they'd been drinking essentially unfiltered water for months. This is why filter replacement schedules aren't suggestions. It's also why rated gallon capacity matters more than "replace every 6 months." A family of five burns through 720 gallons a lot faster than a couple.

Products in this category include Hydroviv, Clearly Filtered (non-RO models), Aquasana, Frizzlife, and most "inline" or "direct connect" filters you'll find on Amazon. They range from single-stage to three-stage, and their certifications vary significantly from model to model.

Reverse Osmosis (NSF/ANSI 58)

Reverse osmosis works differently. It forces water through a semipermeable membrane under pressure. The membrane has pores so small that virtually everything except water molecules is rejected — dissolved solids, heavy metals, fluoride, PFAS, pharmaceuticals, nitrates, and more. It's not adsorption. It's physical exclusion at the molecular level.

RO is the most comprehensive water purification technology available for residential use. Period. I tell people this not because I sell RO systems — I tell them because after 12,000 installations, I've never seen a contaminant problem that RO couldn't solve. It's not the cheapest, and it's not the simplest — but when someone asks me "what removes the most stuff from my water," the answer is always reverse osmosis. Every time.

The tradeoffs are real: RO systems produce waste water (typically 2:1 to 4:1 ratio), they remove beneficial minerals along with contaminants (solved with a remineralization stage), and they require adequate water pressure (typically 40+ PSI) to function properly. Most RO configurations use a dedicated faucet — either through a spare sink hole, or by using a dual faucet that replaces your existing kitchen faucet and integrates both lines into one fixture. That second option means no drilling and no extra holes, which makes RO accessible to renters and homeowners who don't want to modify their sink.

Products in this category include the MicroMax 8500 and 7000 (what we install at GoodFor), Waterdrop G3P800, Cloud RO, iSpring RCC7AK, APEC ROES-PH75, and many others.

The Bottom Line on Technology

Not Sure Which Type You Need? Start Here.

What I Look for After 12,000 Installations

When I evaluate an under-sink water filter — whether I'm recommending it to a customer or deciding whether GoodFor should carry it — I use a framework that looks nothing like a typical product review. Here's what actually matters:

1. Certification Verification (Not Just Claims)

I don't care what the Amazon listing says. I check the actual certification databases — WQA, NSF, and IAPMO — to verify what's certified, which specific contaminants are listed, and at what capacity. More on this in the certification section.

2. Real-World Filter Life vs. Rated Capacity

A filter rated to 720 gallons sounds like six months. But that assumes roughly 4 gallons per day. A family of four or five using filtered water for cooking, coffee, and drinking can hit 720 gallons in three to four months. And if your source water has high sediment or TDS, filter life gets shorter. I always tell customers: the rated capacity is the maximum under controlled conditions, not a guarantee for your specific water.

3. Long-Term Cost of Ownership

The purchase price is the least important number. What matters is the annual replacement cost. A $185 system with $115 replacement cartridges every six months costs $230/year in filters alone. A $450 RO system with $70 annual filter sets costs $70/year. Over five years, the "cheaper" system costs more than double. I'll break this down for every product in the comparison table.

4. Installation Reality

After 12,000 installations, I can tell you: there is no 15-minute installation. Not really. There's a 15-minute best-case scenario in a new-construction kitchen with perfect plumbing and an installer who's done this a thousand times. In a real home — especially older homes — you're dealing with corroded shutoff valves that haven't been turned since 2003, non-standard supply lines, limited clearance, disposal units taking up every inch of space, and drain configurations that look nothing like the diagram in the manual. I once spent forty-five minutes just getting a shutoff valve to close on what was supposed to be a "quick install." I evaluate systems partly on how forgiving they are when conditions aren't perfect — because in my experience, conditions are never perfect.

5. Serviceability

Can a homeowner replace the filter cartridges themselves, or do they need to call someone? Is the system designed so that a filter swap doesn't require disconnecting water lines? Are replacement parts proprietary (meaning you can only buy from one source), or standard? Systems that lock you into proprietary replacements are a long-term risk — if the manufacturer discontinues the cartridge, the entire system becomes waste.

6. Pressure and Plumbing Requirements

Every RO system has a minimum pressure requirement — usually 40-50 PSI. If your house runs below that (common in older homes, homes on well pumps, or homes with pressure regulators set low), the system either underperforms or fails completely. Carbon filters are less sensitive to pressure, which is one genuine advantage. I always recommend customers check their water pressure before buying any system.

7. What Comes Out of the Tap

This is the part lab tests can't capture. Does the water taste flat after RO because there's no remineralization? Does the carbon filter leave a slight aftertaste that the certification tests don't measure? Does the flow rate actually support filling a pot for pasta, or are you standing at the sink for two minutes? I've lived with these systems. The user experience matters.

The Best Under Sink Water Filters (By Category)

I've organized my picks by category because there is no single "best" filter — only the best filter for your situation. Each pick includes what I like, what I'd want you to know, and who it's best for.

Best Undersink Reverse Osmosis System: MicroMax 8500

The MicroMax 8500 is a 4-stage undersink RO system manufactured in Livermore, California. It's the system I install most frequently, and the reason is its certification profile — it carries the broadest set of verified certifications I've seen on a residential undersink RO.

Certifications (WQA certified, independently verified):

• NSF/ANSI 58: Lead (96.3%), pentavalent arsenic (98.8%), cadmium (95.7%), hexavalent chromium (95.8%), trivalent chromium (98.9%), barium (98.0%), copper (98.8%), fluoride (96.5%), radium 226/228 (80.0%), selenium (>99.1%), TDS (93.8%), turbidity (>99.1%)
• NSF/ANSI 53: PFOA/PFOS (99.09% reduction), VOC surrogate (99.3%)
• NSF/ANSI 42: Chlorine taste and odor (99.0%)
• NSF/ANSI 401: Emerging contaminants — Bisphenol A (95%), Estrone (96%), Ibuprofen (95%), Naproxen (96%), Nonylphenol (92%)
• NSF/ANSI 372: Lead-free compliance
• CSA B483.1: Canadian plumbing standards

That's NSF 42, 53, 58, 401, and 372 — all from WQA. The 401 certification for pharmaceuticals is something most competing RO systems don't carry. The PFOA/PFOS certification at 99.09% under NSF 53 is verified, not claimed.

What I like from an installer's perspective: The Easy Change™ twist-in cartridge design means homeowners can swap filters without tools and without disconnecting water lines. The 4-stage design (sediment pre-filter, pre-GAC, membrane, post-GAC) protects the membrane better than 3-stage systems, which extends membrane life. The air-gap faucet is included. Made in America.

Why this is the system I recommend most: People ask me this all the time, so I'll lay it out plainly. It starts with certifications — NSF 42, 53, 58, 401, and 372 is the broadest verified certification profile I've found on a residential undersink RO. But certifications alone don't make a system worth recommending. What seals it for me is how the whole package comes together: the 2,500-gallon carbon capacity means a family of four gets roughly a full year between filter changes, not the 3-6 months you'll get from most carbon-only systems. The twist-in cartridge design means my customers actually replace their filters on time instead of calling me because they can't figure out how to take the housing apart. And the long-term cost math works — at $70-90/year in filter replacements, the MicroMax is less expensive to maintain than Hydroviv ($150-230/year) and Clearly Filtered ($130-150/year), even though it removes significantly more contaminants. For a family of four or five especially, where filter capacity gets burned through fast, the MicroMax's combination of high capacity, low annual cost, and broad certification is hard to beat. That's not a sales pitch — it's just math and experience.

What you should know: The standard installation includes a dedicated RO faucet, which typically uses an existing spare hole in your sink (most sinks have one for a soap dispenser or sprayer). If you don't have a spare hole, GoodFor offers a dual RO/kitchen faucet that replaces your existing faucet with one that has both a regular water line and a dedicated RO line built in — no drilling, no extra holes, and fully renter-friendly. The 30 PSI minimum pressure is lower than many RO systems (most require 40-50), but you still need to check your pressure. Water recovery is about 28% — meaning roughly 3 gallons go to drain for every gallon produced. That's typical for residential RO but not as efficient as some tankless systems. The tank takes 1-3 hours to fill.

Best for: Homeowners who want the most comprehensive certified contaminant removal available at the point of use. Families concerned about PFAS, lead, fluoride, arsenic, pharmaceuticals, or multiple contaminants. Anyone whose water report shows elevated TDS or dissolved metals. This is the "remove everything and don't worry about it" option.

Price: System pricing available through consultation (installed) or on our product page (shipped with concierge plumber support).

Best Non-RO Carbon Filter: Clearly Filtered 3-Stage Under Sink System

If you don't want reverse osmosis — maybe you're a renter, maybe you don't want to drill a faucet hole, maybe you want to keep your minerals — the Clearly Filtered 3-Stage is the strongest non-RO option I've evaluated.

What stands out: WQA certified to NSF/ANSI 42 and 372, with independent third-party testing showing reduction of 232+ contaminants including PFAS, lead, fluoride, chromium-6, pharmaceuticals, and pesticides. The 3-stage design (priming filter + heavy metals/VOCs + fluoride) addresses a broader range than most single-stage carbon systems. The system comes with its own dedicated faucet.

What you should know: Flow rate is noticeably slower than both RO systems and inline carbon filters — roughly half of normal tap flow in real-world testing. If you're used to filling a pot quickly, this will test your patience. Filter replacement costs are higher than average: the 3-stage cartridge set runs approximately $130-$150, with a rated life of 2,000 gallons. That's reasonable for a family of two, but a larger household will burn through cartridges faster. At the time of writing, I haven't been able to confirm full NSF/ANSI 53 certification for all claimed contaminants — their certifications are WQA to NSF/ANSI 42 and 372, with additional contaminant reduction verified through independent lab testing. That's a meaningful distinction: independently tested is good, but certified is better. Build quality is solid — the housing feels durable and the faucet is nicer than most at this price point.

Best for: Renters who can't drill a faucet hole (the system comes with a dedicated faucet that uses a standard sink hole). Health-conscious homeowners who want broad contaminant reduction without the water waste of RO. Anyone who specifically wants to keep minerals in their water.

Best "Custom" Subscription Filter: Hydroviv Under Sink Water Filter

Hydroviv gets a lot of love online, and I understand why — the concept is smart. But the story is more complicated than most reviews make it sound.

What stands out: Founded by Dr. Eric Roy, a PhD chemist who developed the product after the Flint water crisis. The concept is legitimate: Hydroviv analyzes water quality data for your zip code and builds a custom filter blend targeting your area's specific contaminants. The system is IAPMO certified to NSF/ANSI 42, 53, and 372, with the NSF 53 certification covering lead, VOCs, and PFOA/PFOS. Installation is genuinely simple — it connects inline to your existing faucet cold water line with no drilling required.

What you should know: This is where it gets nuanced. According to Hydroviv's own performance page, not all model configurations carry the same certifications. Specifically, their page states that certain model numbers "are not certified for PFOA/PFOS and VOC reduction claims." Because the "customization" determines which model you receive based on your zip code, it's possible to receive a filter that isn't certified for the contaminants you care most about — and you may not know which model configuration you're getting until it arrives. I'd recommend asking Hydroviv directly before ordering whether your specific zip code configuration includes PFOA/PFOS certification.

Hydroviv does not remove fluoride — they state this openly on their FAQ page and explain that adding fluoride removal would compromise performance against other contaminants. That's an honest engineering tradeoff. But it does mean that if fluoride is a concern, this isn't the right system.

The filter is rated to 720 gallons with a 6-month replacement cycle. Replacement cartridges cost approximately $75-$115 depending on subscription status. That puts annual filter costs at $150-$230 — higher than most RO systems and many multi-stage carbon filters.

Best for: Homeowners who want a simple, no-drill installation with contaminant reduction tailored to their area's water data. People who value convenience and are comfortable with a subscription model. Renters. Customers whose primary concerns are chlorine, lead, and VOCs rather than fluoride, pharmaceuticals, or the broadest possible contaminant removal.

Best Budget Under Sink Filter: Frizzlife SP99-NEW

I'm always cautious recommending budget filters because in this industry, "cheap" usually means corners were cut somewhere. The Frizzlife SP99 is one of the few budget systems where the certifications actually check out.

What stands out: NSF/ANSI 53, 42, and 372 certified with 0.5-micron filtration. Certified for lead and PFOA/PFOS reduction. The system includes a dedicated brushed nickel faucet, which is unusual at this price point. Eight-layer filtration design in a single cartridge keeps the footprint compact.

What you should know: Single-cartridge systems are convenient but offer less staging than multi-cartridge setups. No fluoride removal. No pharmaceutical certification (NSF 401). The SP99 is rated to approximately 1,600 gallons — decent for the price, but a family of four will hit that in about 8-9 months, not the full year you might expect. Replacement cartridges run around $30, so the annual math still works in your favor. As with any carbon filter, replacement timing is critical for maintaining certified performance — once the carbon is exhausted, you're drinking unfiltered water whether you realize it or not.

Best for: Budget-conscious homeowners who want verified PFAS and lead protection without a large upfront investment. First-time filter buyers who want to upgrade from a pitcher. Renters.

Best for Renters (No-Drill Inline): Waterdrop 10UA

Not everyone can — or wants to — modify their plumbing. I get it. If you're renting, or you just want clean water without turning your under-sink cabinet into a science experiment, a direct-connect inline filter is the practical move.

What stands out: Connects directly to your existing cold water line — no separate faucet, no drilling, no visible changes. NSF/ANSI 42 certified. Extremely compact and high capacity (8,000-11,000 gallon rated life depending on model). Installation is genuinely under 15 minutes.

What you should know: The base model is certified to NSF/ANSI 42 only — that's chlorine taste and odor, not health-effect contaminants. For a renter who wants lead and PFAS protection without a dedicated faucet, the options narrow significantly. The Waterdrop TSA model adds PFAS claims but check the specific NSF certifications on the model you're purchasing — not all Waterdrop models carry the same certifications. Flow rate is excellent (roughly 1.4 GPM in testing), which is a genuine advantage for a filter that doesn't slow down your tap. From an installer's perspective, I like how little can go wrong with these — no tank, no drain connection, no faucet hole. The fewer connection points, the fewer potential leak points. For someone who just wants better water with minimal risk, that simplicity has real value.

Best for: Renters who need a zero-modification solution. Homeowners who want improved taste and chlorine removal without complexity. Anyone who prioritizes flow rate and simplicity over maximum contaminant removal. If you're still deciding whether an under-sink system is right for you, our Brita filter guide covers simpler options worth considering first.

Side-by-Side Comparison: Under Sink Water Filters

This table compares every system discussed in this guide on the factors that actually matter. All certification data is from public databases as of February 2026. Verify at wqa.org, nsf.org, or iapmo.org.

* Per Hydroviv's performance page: certain model configurations (HYDROVIV-US-SRS-13xZIP and HYDROVIV-US-SRS-48xZIP) are not certified for PFOA/PFOS and VOC reduction claims. Ask Hydroviv which configuration your zip code receives before ordering if PFAS certification is important to you.

All data as of March 2026. For a deeper look at PFAS filtration specifically, see our PFAS Drinking Water Guide. For an overview of drinking water systems including undersink options, see our drinking water systems page.

The Certification Trap: What "Tested to NSF Standards" Actually Means

This is the most important section in this guide, and it's the one that most reviews skip entirely. If I could tattoo one piece of advice on every water filter shopper's forehead, it would be this: check the certification database before you buy.

When you shop for a water filter, you'll see three different claims that sound similar but mean very different things:

"NSF Certified" (or "WQA Certified to NSF/ANSI Standards") — This means an independent, accredited third-party laboratory (NSF International, WQA, or IAPMO R&T) has tested the product, verified the manufacturer's claims, and continues to audit the product through regular follow-up testing. The manufacturer is subject to unannounced factory inspections. This is the gold standard.

"Tested to NSF Standards" — This means the manufacturer conducted their own tests (or hired a lab) using NSF testing protocols, but the product has not been independently certified. There is no ongoing verification. No unannounced factory inspections. The manufacturer is telling you they followed the test method — but nobody has independently confirmed that their results are accurate.

"Uses NSF-Certified Materials" — This means the materials used in the filter (like the carbon media or the housing plastic) have been certified as safe. It says nothing about the filter's ability to remove any contaminant. This is the most misleading claim in the industry, and I see it on Amazon listings every single day.

The gap between "certified" and "tested to" is enormous. Certified products are publicly listed in searchable databases where you can see exactly which contaminants are covered and at what performance level. Products that are only "tested to" don't appear in these databases, and you're relying entirely on the manufacturer's word.

Before buying any filter, look it up at wqa.org/find-products or nsf.org. If it's not listed, it's not certified — regardless of what the packaging says.

What the Reviews Don't Tell You: An Installer's Perspective

This is the section I wish existed when homeowners come to me frustrated after buying a filter that didn't work out. These are the things I've learned from 12,000 installations that you won't find in any product review:

Water Pressure Is the #1 Reason RO Systems Underperform

If your water pressure is below 40 PSI, most RO systems will produce water painfully slowly — or not at all. I've walked into homes where the homeowner installed an RO system, waited twenty minutes to fill a glass, assumed it was broken, and called us to rip it out. It wasn't broken. Their water pressure was 32 PSI. Nobody told them to check. Before you buy an RO system, buy a $10 water pressure gauge from a hardware store, screw it onto a hose bib, and check. Ten dollars and two minutes can save you hundreds. If you're below 40 PSI, you'll either need a booster pump (adds $100-$200) or should consider a carbon filter instead. The MicroMax 8500 is rated down to 30 PSI, which is lower than most, but even at 30 PSI performance is reduced.

Your Shutoff Valve Might Be the Real Problem

About 30% of the installations I do involve replacing the cold water shutoff valve under the sink. In older homes, these valves corrode, seize, or don't fully close. When a DIY installer follows the instructions and turns off the shutoff valve but it doesn't actually stop the water, the result is a flooded kitchen. I always check the shutoff valve first. If yours is old or stiff, replace it before installing any undersink system — or call a plumber.

Under-Sink Space Is Not One Size Fits All

RO systems with tanks need about 12" x 12" of floor space under your sink. That doesn't sound like a lot until you open the cabinet and realize there's a garbage disposal, a hot water dispenser, three bottles of cleaning spray, and a mousetrap from 2019 in there. Tankless RO systems are more compact but require an electrical outlet (which many under-sink areas don't have). Carbon filters have a much smaller footprint — Hydroviv and inline filters like the Waterdrop can fit in almost any space. Measure before you buy. Seriously — I've had customers order a system and then call us when they realize it doesn't fit.

The "6-Month Replacement" Is a Rough Average

Filter replacement schedules are based on average household usage with average water quality. If you have a large family, high sediment, or high TDS, your filters will exhaust faster. If you live alone and use filtered water only for drinking, they'll last longer. Systems with filter life indicators (like LED lights or TDS monitors) take the guesswork out of this. Systems without them require you to track gallons or just follow the calendar — and the calendar might be too late or too early for your specific situation.

Hard Water Kills RO Membranes

If your water hardness is above 10 grains per gallon (GPG) and you install an RO system without a water softener or conditioning system upstream, the membrane will scale and fail prematurely. I've seen membranes that should last 3-5 years fail in 6-8 months in hard water areas. In Southern California, where we do most of our installations, hard water is almost universal. If you're considering RO, check your hardness level. If it's high, talk to a water treatment professional about the full picture — not just the under-sink unit.

Proprietary Cartridges Are a Long-Term Risk

Some manufacturers design filter housings that only accept their proprietary cartridges. This works fine while the company exists and continues to make that cartridge. But I've seen homeowners stuck with $400 systems they can't get replacement filters for because the manufacturer discontinued the model or quietly went out of business. That system is now a very expensive piece of plumbing decoration. Standard-size filter housings that accept industry-standard cartridges give you more flexibility long-term. It's not the sexiest buying criterion, but five years from now you'll be glad you thought about it.

Carbon Filter vs. Reverse Osmosis: When Each Makes Sense

This is the most common question I get during consultations, and honestly, most people overcomplicate it. Here's the decision framework I use — it takes about 30 seconds:

If you're unsure what's in your water, start by checking your water utility's Consumer Confidence Report and entering your zip code in the EWG Tap Water Database. Those two sources will tell you what you're dealing with — and which technology makes sense. For a full guide on interpreting your water data, see our PFAS Drinking Water Guide. Or if you'd rather just tell us your zip code and let us look it up — our water concierge can do that right now.

How to Check What's in Your Water Before You Buy

The single best thing you can do before buying any water filter is to find out what's actually in your water. I'm amazed how many people spend $300-$500 on a filtration system without ever checking their water report — that's like buying prescription glasses without getting an eye exam. Here's how to do it right:

1. Consumer Confidence Report (CCR)

Every public water utility is required to publish an annual water quality report. Search "[your city] water quality report" or call your water utility. This report lists detected contaminants and their levels compared to EPA limits. It won't tell you what's in your home's plumbing (lead pipes, for example), but it gives you the baseline.

2. EWG Tap Water Database

Enter your zip code at ewg.org/tapwater. EWG compares your utility's data against health guidelines — not just legal limits. This is where most people discover that "passing" doesn't mean "optimal." Perfectly legal water can still contain contaminants at levels that health researchers have flagged as concerning.

3. EPA UCMR 5 Database

The EPA required all public water systems to test for 29 PFAS compounds under the fifth Unregulated Contaminant Monitoring Rule. This testing is now approximately 95% complete. Search for your water system to see if PFAS were detected.

4. Home Water Test

If you're on a private well, or you want to know what's coming out of your specific tap (including anything added by your home's plumbing), a certified lab test is the way to go. Services like Tap Score and SimpleLab offer comprehensive panels for $100-$400. If you're in our service area, our team can help you interpret results and figure out what you actually need.

Frequently Asked Questions